Chef Jason’s “Iron Chef Gauntlet” Dinner

Of *course* I had him sign the menu

If you’re living in San Antonio and didn’t know about Chef Jason Dady’s (@ChefJasonDady) recent appearance on Food Network’s “Iron Chef Gauntlet” (ICG), well, welcome back from whatever planet you just returned from. (Note: if you haven’t watched it and don’t want to know how it turned out, quit reading right here.) He did a marvelous job, in cooking, presentation, working with the camera, and above all, representing San Antonio to the wider food world. He made it all the way to the Final Three before host Alton Brown eliminated him. It was a great run.

How I didn’t hear about the next part, I’ll never know. (For starters, he didn’t tweet about it, and that’s rather unusual.) A friend heard about a special dinner (three seatings only) featuring some of his ICG dishes. All three seatings sold out within an hour, but she had the foresight to put herself on the waiting list. The night before, we got the call that we were IN!

That's Chef Jason in black

We arrived at a packed Tre Enoteca, and Chef Jason and crew were hard at work. (I cannot imagine the planning and logistics of serving 80 people 5 dishes, all at the same time.) Due to a massive traffic tie-up on I-10, we missed the reception and appetizers, but arrived in time for the dinner. 

The menu

Servers brought in each dish, and while we ate, Chef Jason chatted a bit about the dish and how it went down on the show. I’ll start there:

Chef Jason tells us about the dish and the show

Course 1: Soba Salad with Black and White Sesame Salad and Dashi Broth. He prepared this for the “Yin/Yang” round, where Alton encouraged them to showcase opposites. “You know I f***ing lost, right?” he asked, to much laughter. He said his goals were “not to get cut first” and to represent San Antonio on a national stage. The soba noodle salad was a perfect starter; you rolled up your noodles, then dipped them into one (or both) of the bowls of sesame puree. He was frustrated, though, that the show chose to omit the second part of the dish (and the fact that Alton apparently didn’t “get” the yin/yang theme he presented). Chef Jason made a rich dashi broth, which the servers brought around and poured into the sesame broth bowls. Totally different texture and taste.

The prettiest presentation, in my book

Course 2: Lightly Smoked King Salmon with Soft Poached Hen Egg, Asparagus, and LOTS of Lemon Zest. When the altar rose (and they really *don’t* know what’s under there), they were all surprised to find….nothing. The challenge was “your best dish with only five ingredients.” When this dish appeared on the show, I tweeted “That looks just like a @ChefJasonDady dish!” I’m not a big fan of salmon, but I could have eaten this all night. Delicately smoked, perfectly moist, and falling apart on the fork. The “LOTS of Lemon Zest” was a response to an earlier criticism that a dish was not “lemony enough.”

The coconut was charred under the grill

Course 3: Pan Seared Diver Sea Scallop with Thai Red Curry, Thai Herbs, and Coconut Ice. This week’s theme was “re-imagining a classic combination,” and Chef Jason drew coconut/lime. On the show, as he prepped the dish, Alton was under-whelmed with the “re-imagining” part. So Chef Jason quickly altered course to prepare something Alton had never eaten before. The result was this stunning coconut and Thai curry presentation. My only complaint: the jasmine rice underneath was uncooked (to hold up the coconut shell), and I couldn’t retrieve and eat the spicy and creamy curry sauce that ran out of my bowl. The coolness of the sea scallop perfectly offset the rather spicy sauce. He used liquid nitrogen to prepare the coconut ice. This dish gave him the win for that week of the show.

This reminded me of the "duck confit orchiette" dish at The Lodge

Course 4: Braised Pork Shoulder Ragu with Celery Root Ravioli. This week’s altar ingredient: half a hog. Chef Jason decided on a pork shoulder, with which he has a lot of experience. People often asked him if he practiced, and he tells them, “Only one thing: the pressure cooker.” It always amazes us on cooking shows that the professional chefs don’t think ahead on this score. They don’t use the things, of course (if a dish needs “low and slow,” that’s how they cook it.) But with only 45 minutes, the pressure cooker is the obvious go-to appliance. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve seen an amazingly talented chef waste 10 minutes trying to figure out how to put the fool thing together. So Chef Jason practiced this like a fiend and had it down pat. The pork shoulder just melted in the mouth.

Course 5: Porcini Crusted Elk Loin with Wild Mushroom, Red Currant Bordelaise, Blackberry Gastrique and Micro Arugula. Week One’s theme was “Into the Wild.” If you know Chef Jason, you know he knows his wild game, so he obviously went for the elk. This dish had a lot going on, and he liked how it came together; I’m pretty sure he said this was the dish he was happiest with. Alton had no criticism for him and plenty for the other chefs. So he was a little floored when Chef Izard won the challenge (“I had to keep my poker face on.”)

Dessert was a simple but delicious shortbread cookie. In response to a question, he said he has already been to New York to film something else. He didn’t share any further details, but we’ll be watching.

The event was such a success that I would bet he’ll do it again, if the logistical challenges aren’t too overwhelming. We’re both looking forward to seeing more of him on Food Network and Cooking Channel.

Finalist Again! Central Market's Apple Recipe Contest

We interrupt our normally scheduled "get the house ready to sell" programming for a cooking update. In October, Central Market sponsored an apple recipe contest; once again, we entered, and once again, we were finalists. (8 contests, 8 finals appearances; not bad.)

We worked on recipes over a weekend. Bruce prepped a sweet recipe (saving the idea for next year), and I modified my Frannie's cornbread dressing recipe (thanks for the idea, Robyn!). I added apples and mild Italian sausage to the recipe, and substituted apple cider for some of the chicken broth. They have changed the rules, so we were able to submit both recipes.

After a longer-than-expected wait, an email informed me they selected the dressing recipe as a finalist. Finals scheduled for two days hence. Scramble to rearrange Friday/Saturday schedule. At least we weren't out of town.

I did the bulk of the work on Friday; all I had to do on Saturday was cut up the apple, stir everything together, and pop into the oven. I plated at the store.

Frannie's Cornbread Dressing with Apples and Sausage

During preparation, we were all surprised when the Spurs Coyote showed up! He wasn't going to do much eating in that costume, but he was fun to have around, very interactive, and very generous with photos. (Kids at the store went berzerk.)

From left: Apple Quince Tart, Apple Cilantro Slaw, Vietnamese Summer Rolls, and Apple Bundt Cake

Four other finalists presented the pictured dishes (two savory, two sweet). As usual, we each presented to the panel of three judges (none of whom I recognized).

After several minutes of deliberation, they selected the apple-quince tart as the winner. (We learned during the Hatch contest that the judges have a predeliction for sweet dishes, although Bruce won once with a savory recipe.)

He tried to abscond with it after the photo.

It's always fun to participate, and as corny as it sounds, it was a lot of fun to meet the Spurs Coyote. 

Watching carefully for their next contest.

Opie’s BBQ: A Texas Monthly Top 50

I'm happy to be back to Alamo A La Carte after a long sabbatical. I'm planning many more posts about food, travel, and arts, particularly in central Texas. I hope you'll join me (or rejoin me). 

Labor Day provides a great opportunity for a barbeque road trip, as long as you’re careful to check if your target joints are open on Mondays (many aren’t). So we headed to Spicewood (about an hour and a half north of San Antonio) to try Opie’s BBQ. The air was redolent with mesquite smoke as we drove up.

Judging from the number of cars, we weren’t alone. I love places that keep their meats in an indoor “pit” (like Schoepf’s and Cooper’s). They lift the lid, and you choose (if you can) from the many smoky selections. We picked out some baby backs, sausage, and brisket. We’ve heard raves about their spicy corn and tater tot casserole, so those came home too. We helped ourselves to onions, jalapenos, pickles, and sauce at the center island (bread and beans were also available; we’ll need to return on the weekend to try their butter beans).

I met head pitmaster Marco Oglesby out back. (One really has to love this job to put in the hours required, but one must have a special love to do so in the August heat.) He said they try to estimate how much meat they’ll need and get everything going hours before service. It’s not like he can cook it to order; once they’re out of product, they’re out. “We try to stay open as late as we can,” he said.

The fork-tender brisket, with its defined pronounced smoke ring, fell apart as I cut. The meat had a great body. The ribs were sweet and peppery with an intense bark, and very tender.

A bit of onion and mushroom gave the creamy tater tot casserole some texture and had just the right amount of cheese. The cream in the spicy corn helped to offset the kick from the jalapenos. The corn was fresh and crunchy, with a touch of smoke.

I highly recommend a road trip. As with most popular BBQ joints (especially those on the TM Top 50 list), the earlier you get there, the better choices you’ll have. What are your favorite BBQ joints?

Dallas Treats: Scardello and Rise No. 1

Since the Chihuly exhibit at the Dallas Arboretum (see previous post) took only one morning, we spent a pleasant day sampling some fabulous Dallas food.

Scardello Artisan Cheese @scardellocheese has won the “best cheese shop” award for the past two years from Dallas Magazine, a well-deserved honor. 

Their cheese case includes around 150 varieties from Texas, US, and around the world. The friendly staff will offer you samples of anything, and he’ll put the label next to it so you can read about what you’re trying. (If you really want to annoy him, and I did, keep taking the small piece of waxed paper and wadding it up between tastings.) They’ll cut any size you want, even off the wheel.

Labels include the cheese’s name, type of milk, its maker, and a brief description. Just tell them what you like (“funky,” “your best blue”), and they’ll make a recommendation (along with a wine pairing to complement your selection).

They host wine tastings, beer and cheese pairings, and other events throughout the month. In fact, this weekend, our local friends from Ranger Creek @rangercreek will pair their La Bestia with a Gruyere.

Grab a loaf of crusty bread, some choices from their charcuterie, and a few brownies from Oh Brownie @ohbrownie (try the gourmet sea salt and caramel) to complete your meal.

We would have eaten lunch there, but we had reservations at Rise @risesouffle, a floating-away-good soufflé restaurant on Lovers Lane.

 

Styled after a French bistro, the menu includes traditional French appetizers, salads, and cheese, in addition to their ethereal soufflés. Play some Scrabble on the table while you await your appetizers.

Bruce’s artichoke Andrée (served steamed with “Hedda’s family sauce”) was earthy, and the creamy sauce nicely offset the leaves. He ate all the tender inner leaves, which got tougher as he moved outward.

Soupe a l’oignon grantinée? Yes please! This onion soup had a marvelous depth of flavor from the caramelized onions and would hold up just fine in France.

Their entrée soufflés run the gamut from traditional (like my jambon and Gruyere) to the more adventurous. Bruce’s salty and garlicky esgargot soufflé arrived on a traditional escargot dish. All of them were lick-your-bowl delicious. My sister worried that my ten-year-old nephew would wolf down their shared soufflé while she took the five-year-old for a potty break.

Your server will recommend that you order your dessert in advance, since soufflés do take time (and they’re all cooked to order). Our table communally devoured (hey, we’re family) soufflés of chocolate, raspberry, and a seasonal pumpkin selection.

Remember that soufflés take time to prepare. Summon your inner Frenchman and relax and enjoy the wait.

Texas Renaissance Festival: Lift Up Your Cares

Thirty-eight years ago, the Texas Renaissance Festival  @texrenfest opened with three stages and 15 acres near Magnolia (north of Houston). Today, the festival has exploded to 60 acres, seven themed villages, 400 shops, tasty food, live entertainment for all ages, evening fireworks, and just a jolly good time.

As you arrive at the site, you’ll notice many attendees in full costume. If your ten-year-old (or husband) just can’t bear the visit in her Hello, Kitty shirt, stop by the costume rental near the entrance. Dress code is, uh, flexible. You’ll see some folks (who should know better) in skimpy chain mail, as well as Star Wars stormtroopers and World War I uniforms. Go figure.

Bacon on a stick? Why, yes please!

While wandering through the grounds, you hear music from familiar sources (like brass ensembles) and period instruments (such as dulcimers). The aromas of roasting meat and grilled corn whet your appetite. Hawkers in nearby booths call loudly for your patronage. Costumed cast members enact vignettes tied to the weekend’s theme.

Our favorite shows (see my YouTube video for highlights):

 

• Cast in Bronze: Most carillons reside in stationary perfection atop bell towers. This 4-ton behemoth is mounted on a heavily modified gooseneck trailer. You won’t hear music like this in many places.

 

 

• The Ded Bob Sho: A snarky skeleton “dummy” and his masked companion Smuj. We missed his usual left-leaning political zingers. (Maybe he didn’t want to risk his substantial tip income in this heated election year.) Nevertheless, we always enjoy getting “Bobmotized.”

 

• Arsene: This French mime makes his show out of being a poor magician and good-naturedly harassing audience members. Warning: do not show up late or fail to applaud. You might lose your shoe!

 

• Royal Falconer: These beautiful birds demonstrate hunting skills (“meeses-pieces” serving as bait) and chase presenters around the stage.

 

 

 

Food choices include everything from turkey legs (of course) to pierogies to fried crawfish. Even at this meat-fest, vegetarians won’t starve, with choices like hummus, Greek salad, and falafel (hang out near the Greek Agora for the most options). The Brigadoon Brewery brews their Whiskey Barrel Ale right there on site. This dark and tasty brew is full of caramel flavor and very little hoppiness.

 

 

 

Between shows and food, browse the nearly 400 shops. Whether you fancy ethereal wind chimes, delicate jewelry, or soft leather moccasins, you’ll find something to suit your taste.

 

Logistics:

• Unless you enjoy excessive heat and humidity, choose a weekend in late October through mid-November (Thanksgiving weekend attracts half the city of Houston).
• You can purchase a two-day pass, but one day works just fine. To make a weekend of it (and you should), visit the wineries in nearby Montgomery, Southern Star Brewing in Conroe, and The Woodlands for more great shopping.
• You’ll find plenty of hotels in the Magnolia and north Woodlands area; plan on a half-hour drive to the site. You can camp onsite, but expect rowdy crowds and a general lack of facilities (other than Porta Potties). Warning from personal experience: carefully minding the speed limit in Magnolia is an excellent idea.

 

 

 

• Print a schedule online (or purchase a program onsite), and spend a few minutes planning your day so you don’t miss a favorite performance.
• Purchase your tickets online so you don’t waste your time at the ticket booth queues.
• Parking is free. “King’s Preferred” close parking costs $10 and is a wise investment in post-event walking avoidance if you arrive around lunchtime or after.
• Make wise clothing choices based on the weekend’s weather. Only a couple of pubs feature “ice dragons” (air conditioning), and the site provides little cover (and swamp-like conditions) during rain. And did I mention that Houston mosquitoes can carry off small animals?
• The festival runs every weekend in October and November (plus the aforementioned to-be-avoided Thanksgiving Friday).

 

Ranger Creek’s Second Saturday Open House

Every second Saturday of the month from 2-5pm, Ranger Creek Brewing and Distilling @rangercreek hosts a lively open house. For $8 ($5 if you bring back your glass), they provide three beers, or two beers and a bourbon sample. Strong and smoky whiskeys don’t usually pass my lips, but I had to taste this small-batch, carefully crafted sample.

A rowdy crowd (watching the Florida/A&M game) filled the small tasting room, so we moved into the brewhouse to stake out our spot. Bruce beelined for the two food trucks (Spice Runner @spice_runner and Say She Ate @SaySheAteTX), and I procured beer. Say She Ate’s decadent duck fat fries with bleu cheese melted in the mouth. The Jamaican jerked ribs from Spice Runner fell off the bone. Their pita wrap with an African spice braise had a warm flavor with a hint of cinnamon.

Say She Ate's Akaushi sliders and duck fat fries

Ranger Creek focuses on the relationship between beer and whiskey or bourbon, making them unique amongst distillers and brewers.

We received only a small portion of bourbon (crazy arcane Texas ABC rules), but enough to savor the aroma and taste. Mark talked us through a four-part tasting. Step one: appearance. The bourbon had a rich copper/amber hue. It takes on a deep color in only nine months, since it ages in small, five-gallon barrels. Step 2: aroma. He suggested a small sniff, since bourbon has a significantly higher alcohol content than wine. I smelled caramel and charred oak. Steps 3 and 4: taste and finish. The bourbon felt warm as it went down and tasted much like it smelled, with honey and spice notes. 

Ranger Creek uses 70% corn (locally grown), 16% unmalted rye, and 14-15% barley. All bourbons are produced in the US and aged in a brand-new oak barrel. (They next use the barrels for other whiskeys or beer. Their much-anticipated Imperial Porter, aged in former bourbon barrels, comes out this fall.)   The Texas weather greatly affects aging (their brewhouse is not climate controlled), so batch 9 can taste totally different than batch 6 (all labels include clearly marked batch numbers). We promptly visited Spec’s and picked up a bottle for a special occasion.

I foresee two issues as this event gains popularity. They have a large facility and open outside area, but it filled quickly. The fire department might object to the number of people at some point. And the tasting room has only one restroom, with a steady line all day. They’ll need to address these issues as the event becomes more popular.

They’ll be in Austin for a craft brewers festival in Austin in October, so the next open house is November 9. Bring folding chairs, and arrive early to claim a good spot. Mark your calendars for a fun afternoon.

Construction Update: Dough Pizzeria

On a recent visit, I asked Nancy about the progress of the renovations at the San Antonio Dough Pizzeria (@doughpizzeria). The only sign of construction is the blacked-out windows of the former State Farm office next door. From inside, there's no indication of construction.

Nancy said their number one reason for building the expansion was to "get people out of the heat." The new space will have several hi-tops for waiting customers. The hostess stand will also move into the new space (you'll enter through the old State Farm office), and they plan a few more tables, both inside and out.

The current wine wall will be torn down and replaced with a wine wall in the new space.

They hope to open the new expansion in April.

Second Edition: Glutton's Tour of Houston--Unexpected Surprises

I love coming across unexpected surprises when I travel—even to very familiar places like Houston. On the one hand, I enjoyed (most of) the restaurants we visited, but situations I didn’t anticipate led to some of the best moments. Here are a few from our recent Glutton’s Tour:

• “Dinner and a show” at El Real Tex-Mex @ElRealTexMex : No, I’m not talking about the silent Western movie or football game inside. Sit outside, close to the front rail along Westheimer, and enjoy watching the parade of humanity. A not-particularly-fit woman runs for the bus at the curb up the street (and makes it!), the cyclist jumps out of his skin when he hears the squealing car tires (he avoids catastrophe), a couple of drug addicts cautiously step off the bus just in front of the restaurant (there’s a fence and they move along). Make a game of counting the car honks (we heard four) and screeching tires.
  
  
  
  
  
• Meeting the chef @thefrenchcowboy: After a marvelous meal (see future post) with a very knowledgeable server at Philippe Restaurant, Chef Philippe Schmit left the kitchen and stopped by our table to chat. He is quite personable (with that charming French accent) and was truly pleased that we enjoyed the meal.
  
  
  
• Finally breaking my hex on sports: Regular readers know of my love for the Tour de France. I even play along a own fantasy team. This year, I expected the Cyclists Union to ring my doorbell and ask me to quit choosing riders for my team. By the time they reached Paris, only five riders on my team of ten remained upright on the bike. Complete carnage. Then along comes the American League Championship series. I turned off a couple of games when the Texas Rangers went south upon my tuning in. My friend Shauna enjoined me to switch off and offered to text me the score. Upon returning to my hotel on Saturday night (a week ago), I hesitantly tuned in….and happily watched the Rangers decimate the Tigers 15-5 to win the pennant. Finally I am no longer the bane of professional sports.
  
  
  
  
  
• Watching and learning from the crepe chef at Melange Creperie @melangecreperie: You can't often see the chef prepare your food in most restaurants; even “open kitchens” provide only a partial view. But we enjoyed watching our crepes (and the orders ahead of us) come together—from bubbling dough on the griddle to slicing the bananas to folding the finished product into perfect thirds.

Next up: Failing to meet expectations

Second Edition: Glutton's Tour of Houston--The Sweet Stuff

My sister Robyn and I recently embarked upon another Glutton’s Tour in Houston. (She also posted about the trip on her blog The Burbanist.) We grew up there and enjoy visiting every once in a while. Neither one of us miss the traffic, which snarls worse on every visit. I wonder when they’ll pave over the entirety of west Houston to make IH-10 25 lanes wide….and it would still jam up. We generally confine our visits to the fun and funky areas inside Loop 610, though, so we avoid the worst of it. Over the next several posts, I’ll share the highlights of the trip.

I usually eschew desserts at the end of a meal. But on this trip, the sweet stuff provided the culinary high points.

Banana Nutella Crepes from Melange Creperie @melangecreperie : We patiently stood in front of the small cart on the corner of Westheimer and Taft with ten other people (and one enormous but laid-back dog) while noisy traffic whizzed by behind us. Our chef took individual orders and prepared the crepes fresh, two at a time. Given the serving size (and our plans to visit several other places that day), we decided to split one. We watched in awe as our chef ladled out the batter and spread it thin over the griddle. He expertly flipped it after a few seconds (my attempt to do so would resemble a wadded-up piece of paper), then added the fillings. Our crepe was perfectly thin, with crispy edges, a tender center, and pleasantly warm to the touch. The sweetness of the slightly overripe bananas paired well with the Nutella. Get there early. His small cart doesn’t hold much, and once his ingredients are gone, you’re out of luck. ht

French Cowboy Churros at Philippe Restaurant @thefrenchcowboy : Churros? At a French restaurant?? Why, yes. After a marvelous meal of monkfish, foie gras, and soup in this elegant restaurant on Post Oak, we split an order of cinnamon churros, salted caramel ice cream, and spicy chocolate sauce. The churros were airy and light, and not oversweet. We alternated dipping the churros into the luscious ice cream, then the sauce, which had just the right “kick.” We left not a crumb.

Petit Fours from Moeller’s : I’ve posted about Moeller’s previously. This small shop was my Frannie’s “go-to” spot when she didn’t feel like fixing dessert on her own or needed a girly birthday cake for one of her three granddaughters. Based on past experience, we arrived early on Saturday morning so we could snag the coveted white petits fours and a tray of cheese straws. Over twenty boxes on the table at the rear held pre-ordered cakes ready for pick up. When I asked my husband if I should bring back vanilla or chocolate, he replied “yes.” They didn’t last two days.

Next up…. unexpected surprises.

Meeting Chef Anne Burrell

Chef Anne Burrell (@chefanneburrell) visited H-E-B’s Alon Market today to sign her new cookbook, “Cook Like A Rock Star.”

Chef Anne looks (and sounds) just like she does on Food Network (@foodnetwork), with her wild, white hair and broad smile. She was very friendly and approachable, and offered a handshake so I could introduce myself. “Are you a Marine Mom?” she asked. Why yes, Chef Anne, I am. I told her how much we are looking forward to watching her on “The Next Iron Chef.” “But I know you can’t talk about it,” I said. She replied, “I can’t, but I’ll accept any best wishes.” We’ll be rooting for her, as she is one of our favorites. (Wish I had ditched the purse somewhere.) After her visit, she tweeted “Thanks to all the H-E-B’s that I did signings at. Everyone was very kind and delightful—thank you!” Pretty classy and gracious.

“Rock Star” mainly targets new cooks; she wants to make cooking approachable and not so intimidating. “A recipe might tell you to brown a piece of meat and then deglaze the ‘fond.’ But what the hell is ‘fond’?” she says in her introduction. She calls it “the crud on the bottom of the pan.” But she refuses to give up mise en place (having all your ingredients prepped and measured before taking the first cooking step). Rather than the standard recipe format, her recipes start out with a small story, then mise en place, and only then, cooking instructions. “This is how I cook and how professionals cook, and it’s how you should cook, too.” The cookbook contains instructional sidebars (how to make stock, for example) and fun handwritten tips (“I like fresno peppers because they’re medium hot”). I’m most looking forward to making just about everything in the “Piccolini” section. “Piccolini” means very small in Italian, but she defines it as “my little nibbles.” They’re tapas-sized dishes that will work well either to start a meal or for entertaining a houseful of people.

We now have a new addition to our growing collection of signed cookbooks. Of these authors, I’ve only met Chef Anne and Chef Rick Moonen (read my post about the fabulous seafood dinner he prepared at the now-defunct Watermark Grill); the others we purchased pre-signed. I hope to get the Tex-Mex book signed this weekend on my Glutton’s Tour of Houston, part 2.

If you ever have the chance to meet Chef Anne, I highly recommend you stop by. We’ll be cheering you on when “The Next Iron Chef” starts!