Sunday, November 29, 2009

The Wonderful new "Taste" Section in the Express-News


I am a child of my generation....I really enjoy the newspaper. I spend all day in front of a computer. Other than breaking news, I don't want to sit more hours in front of a screen, reading in-depth analysis or local stories. I've been saddened over the years to watch our newspaper get smaller and smaller.

I was ecstatic, therefore, when editor Robert Rivard (www.twitter.com/editorrivard) announced several weeks ago the expansion of the Sunday "Taste" section. A few years back, the Express-News moved "Taste" from Sunday to Wednesday and shrunk it considerably, much to my disappointment. So I couldn't wait to see the new version last week...the first time in years, to my knowledge, that the paper has actually expanded.

The section is a hit! Editor Karen Haram (www.twitter.com/mySA_Food) strikes just the right balance between recipes, features on local foodies, beer/wine/healthy eating columns, chef profiles, and of course, restaurant reviews. I often tell Bruce I won't visit a restaurant until the Express-News has reviewed it. (Unless it's one of Chef Jason Dady's, of course.) I am particularly enjoying Pat Mozersky's column on "Chef's Secrets."

Today's section includes:
  • Local meat markets
  • Recipes for hearty winter soups
  • Healthy remakes for holiday foods
  • Reviews of Francesca's at Sunset and Global Inspiration
  • An interview with Patricia Reisz of Patty Lou's Restaurant

If you don't subscribe, it's worth picking up a Sunday paper just for this fabulous section.

Happy eating!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Chef Jason Dady's New Venture: Restaurant Insignia



So my "regularly scheduled" blog post for the weekend was pre-empted by a totally unexpected email on Friday afternoon.

I've been anxiously awaiting the grand opening announcement for Restaurant Insignia (Chef Jason's new downtown place; www.twitter.com/chefjasondady) and even brazenly asked for an invite a few weeks ago on Twitter. Imagine my surprise, then, when I received one!

Chef Jason invited all four Dady's Underground Kitchen hosts (see earlier post), as well as several others, to a "soft opening" on Friday evening. After meeting friends for drinks at Tre Trattoria, Bruce met me downtown (his evening plans having been hastily rearranged.)

The restaurant is located adjacent to the Fairmount Hotel, at S. Alamo and E. Nueva. Turn south on S. Alamo from Commerce and use the Fairmount's valet parking (Restaurant Insignia will validate one hour of parking for every $25 spent). According to Chef Jason, the cuisine is "Modern American with Texas Roots." The decor was warm and inviting, with a bright central bar area. We joined about 50 other invited diners, including @cmfoodie's Mary Martini and @SavorSA Bonnie Walker.

We were pleased to discover that our favorite waiter from @Bin555, Derek, had received a promotion to General Manager of Restaurant Insignia. Our server Ashley handed us a menu and informed us that the Chef would be making the selections. After watching the activity for several minutes, Bruce correctly observed that this evening was a "stress test." Chef Jason was testing his wait staff and kitchen by serving nearly everything on the menu to different tables.

For starters, he has developed a marvelous "chef-inspired" cocktail menu. Bruce enjoyed a licorice drink; I unfortunately failed to record the name, but it was delicious. Our "snack" of garlic fries with a harissa aioli began the meal perfectly.

Next, Chef sent out a tuna tartare "poke" with a pineapple mojo. (Here was the only service hiccup of the evening. For all other courses, he sent out one dish for Bruce and I to share. In this case, we got two, which given the amount of food served during the evening, was one too many.) The flavors and textures were perfectly balanced. A wedge salad followed. Bruce described it as a "BLT without the bread." A light dressing complemented the balsamic bacon very well.

The sous-chef in charge of the wood-fired oven kept busy all evening, and a "bacon and egg" pizza arrived next. The crust was tasty and crunchy, and the toppings of quail egg, red onion, bacon and pancetta all blended. Our entree was cast-iron fried chicken with piloncillo waffles and a maple gravy. It sounds super-sweet, but wasn't. As with all his other creations, the flavors all balanced, and the maple in the gravy was perfectly subtle.

Bruce chose a "tres leches" cheesecake for dessert (marvelously light), and I chose a classic Chef Jason nutella mousse cake.

Throughout the evening, Derek and Chef Jason wandered around the restaurant, making sure everyone was enjoying their experience and their meal. I saw a lot of happy diners. Several (myself included) snapped photos throughout the evening.

Restaurant Insignia opens Monday (October 19) for dinner at 5:00 pm. Regular hours will be Sunday - Thursday, 11:00 am - 10:00 pm, and Friday-Saturday, 11:00 am - 11:00 pm.

Good luck to Chef Jason as he begins his new adventure!

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Galveston: Day 2



A much slower pace today than yesterday. After a tasty morning breakfast at Miller's Seaside Grill, we headed out to Moody Gardens. I have always wanted to visit and have never been.

Much to our disappointment, the Rainforest Pyramid is closed for renovations until next April. We purchased tickets for a "Dolphins and Whales" IMAX and the aquarium. Unfortunately, neither one of them measured up.


The film featured beautiful cinematography and soothing music, but just wasn't very interesting. And the aquarium was much smaller than either one of us expected. I guess after having experienced the Baltimore National Aquarium and the one in New Orleans, it's tough for anything else to meet the standard.


Next we headed out to Bolivar Peninsula. I spent many summers there, and I wanted to see how it was faring after the storm. We found more houses that we expected, but poor Gilchrist had just about been wiped out. Lots of blank slabs and stilts holding up nothing. We discovered a bit of rebuilding, but also several families living in trailers on their slabs. A little sad. But I do always enjoy the ferry ride. Took some cool photos, which will be posted to my Facebook page soon.


Next destination: The Strand, Galveston's historic shopping district. I had heard that 80% of businesses had returned, and on previous passes through the area, things seemed pretty much back to normal. But I must say we were disappointed in the shops we found. Mostly touristy t-shirts and sunglasses, and more empty storefronts than we expected.


We did find a lovely wine bar...Bacchus. Bruce had a white wine flight, I a red wine flight, and we discovered a marvelous new sauvignon blanc. Go look for Warwick from South Africa. Delicious!

Dropped back by the hotel to change and check out restaurants. After getting in late Friday night and a sub-par meal last night, we were really hoping to find something delicious. And we did!


Olympia Grill on Pier 21 serves terrific Greek food and wines. We started out with an appetizer dip combination. They brought out an enormous platter of tzatziki, hummus, feta, Kalamata olives, skordayia, and melitzano salata....a delicious eggplant dish. (Yes, eggplant. Those who know and love me are presently shocked into insensibility.) WAY more than we could eat....now sitting in take-out containers in our hotel room. A lovely light lentil soup followed. Bruce had a perfectly grilled red snapper. Tender and flaky and not in the least fishy. I had souvlaki with tzatziki; again, perfectly cooked. Our excellent server Nicole talked us into a baklava to take home. YUM!


We head home tomorrow after a fun trip.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Galveston: Day 1



We began our day with some made-to-order omelettes and super-fresh berries at the Hotel Galvez. SUCH a classy hotel....le grande dame of all Galveston hotels. A National Historic Landmark, it was completed in 1911 after civic leaders decided they needed something to bring back tourists after the devastating 1900 hurricane. The loggia in the lobby channels the 1910s.

Our bay fishing trip started at 1:30, so we didn't have a lot of time in the morning. Decided to drive around and get the lay of the land. For the most part, I'm pleased to report that "GALVESTON IS BACK!!!" We only saw the occasional beat-up building. Most hotels, restaurants, stores, etc., have rebuilt and are open for business, so come on down! I know there are areas of town that have not been so fortunate; we just haven't seen them yet.

In a happy coincidence, Bruce's brother, sister, and her husband picked this weekend to visit their parents in Conroe, and they booked a bay fishing trip for Saturday. We joined Steve, Sandy and Dom for an afternoon of fishing.

We benefitted from the morning bay fishing outing, which had to make two stops before landing on a school of red drum. Our captain beelined for the spot, and the boat ended up taking a whopping 37 drum! If yours is longer than 28" (and most are), you must use the "red drum tag" on your fishing license. Bruce bagged a 30" and one just under 28". They're beautiful fish. I also caught the biggest fish I've ever reeled in.... an 18" gaff-fin catfish, which the deckhand helpfully unhooked for me. (Them gaff-fins HURT. Bruce got pegged with a wee one several years ago and chummed the water for half an hour. Anticoagulants, don't you know.) Sandy and Steve pulled in a couple of good-sized catfish, and Dom got his own red near the end of the trip. We also saw a couple of sharks and an enormous stingray...have no idea how he got it on board.

Paid a nice fellow to clean our fish (we have a lot of red drum to eat!) and headed back to the hotel to clean up a bit. (Dead-squid-bait has a gift of scent that just keeps on giving.) We heard someone recommend Fishtales for dinner, just down the street from our hotel. Enjoyed a couple of lovely beverages, some fresh Gulf oysters, and my crawfish po-boy. Bruce's Mahi disappointed, as did the service.

We're looking forward to Moody Gardens tomorrow (I've never been) and perhaps other indoor activities, given the weather forecast.



Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Let's Go Camping! Part 2


Here's part 2 of my car-camping suggestions.

Other essentials:


  • Rain gear: Even if you don't think it's going to rain, bring it anyway.

  • Bug spray: Essential. We also like to bring an area fogger and fog around our dining/campfire area in the evening. If you are a bug-o-phobe, either get over it or consider alternative recreation. Expect them to show particular interest in your evening lanterns.

  • Sunscreen/Hats: I mean, really, you're outside all weekend.

  • If going in the cooler months, make sure to check evening temperatures and pack accordingly. You may need an extra blanket or two.

  • First aid kit
Making your site more liveable



  • Camp chairs: Most sites have a picnic table, but it’s not comfortable for long-term relaxation. We bring a couple of collapsible chairs and set them up around the campfire at night.

  • Dining canopy: After experiencing a couple of campouts with rain and not-shady sites, we purchased a canopy. That way, you can get out of the sun or keep dry in the rain without having to hole up in your tent.

  • Bring a small, portable cooler that you can take along on hikes/excursions to keep sodas and lunch cold.

  • La Toilette: At most sites, you will share a bathroom facility with the other sites nearby. They’re very basic with toilets, a sink, and a couple of showers. You’ll need to bring your own toiletries and towels (they usually provide toilet paper, but we have an emergency stash). I have a plastic caddy I use to transport my necessaries to the facilities for my morning shower. Prime-time at the showers is 8:00-9:00am, so get there early. We find a couple of trees to run a clothesline at the site to dry towels, swimsuits, etc.
Other useful tips:



  • We have all our gear in a series of about 5-6 bags and plastic bins. We simply make a quick check, throw it all in the truck, and we’re ready to go. We developed this after several frustrating trips where we had to search all over the garage for this and that, then ending up in the back of beyond missing something as basic as chair.

  • We usually go places after breakfast and return for dinner. After packing the food in the truck, we put lanterns, the Coleman stove, chairs, etc., in the tent and close it up. No, you cannot lock a tent. In 25 years of camping, no one has ever “messed” with our stuff. It’s kind of a “camping code.” Having said that, I wouldn’t leave the family jewels in there, either.

  • Most sites have a fire ring, and some campsites sell firewood. We usually bring a bundle of our own and some charcoal. During a burn-ban, they’ll usually allow charcoal fires. I am looking forward to the lifting of the burn ban….nothing better in this world than an evening around the campfire.

  • It’s a cliché, but when you depart, make absolutely certain the campfire is completely out and leave the site cleaner than you found it.

Next on Alamo A La Carte: our Columbus-Day-weekend trip to Galveston!

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Let's Go Camping! (Part I)


My seven-year-old nephew recently experienced his first Cub Scout campout and became instantly hooked. My sister and her family now find themselves in camping-gear-acquisition mode, and I shared some of our tips, developed over 25 years of camping. I thought, "Hmmm, this might be a fun blog post." It's lengthy, so it'll be 2-3 parts.

I'm sure many of you already enjoy camping. But if you don't/haven't, I highly recommend it. Spending nearly 100% of a weekend outside is highly rejuvenating. You don't need a lot of gear, and in fact, can borrow from friends if you just want to give it a try for a time or two. Texas has many, many parks suitable for tent camping, in all areas of the state.

For starters, we always make campsite reservations at parks with tent-only campgrounds, with water (but no electricity) at the site and nearby flushies/showers. (And I highly recommend reservations; nothing stinks more than getting all geared up and finding out there are no sites available.) You *can* tent camp at an RV site (has electrical hookups), but we don’t like these, as many RVers bring televisions and whatnot, which doesn’t really seem like “camping” to us. And you want water at your site….very useful for cooking, cleaning, and dousing your evening campfire. Otherwise you’ll have to pack in water or lug it from a tap nearby.

1) The Basics
**A tent: You will need some kind of shelter. We like a tent big enough to stand up and move around in. I recommend one with a “fly” (a piece that goes over the top of the tent) as it promotes good air circulation while keeping rain out.

**Something to sleep in/on: You don’t necessarily need sleeping bags, but on cooler evenings, sleeping all snuggled up inside something has definite merits. I use a camp cot, and Bruce brings an Aero bed. (Our only electrical item, inflated using a car battery adapter. He can’t sleep on the ground without ruining his back for days.)

**Food and a means to cook it: Yes, you can do cold cereal and sandwiches, but that doesn’t make for a very interesting campout in our book. We carefully plan all our meals and buy food ahead of time, just in case the surrounding area doesn't include a grocery. We like a hot breakfast (cooked on the Coleman stove), sandwiches/fruit for lunch (we’re usually out somewhere enjoying the scenery), and a campfire-cooked dinner.

You can bring regular dishes and cooking utensils from your kitchen and use paper plates/forks. We have a plastic bin with basic cooking supplies (pots, a griddle, can opener, knives, cutting board, etc., plus a set of camp dishware). We developed this strategy after one too many campouts where the can opener or cutting board didn’t make it out of the kitchen into the truck.

IMPORTANT note about food: we have a plastic bin for non-perishables and a cooler for perishables (refilled daily with ice). DO NOT store food, even in coolers/plastic bins, in your tent; don’t even take food in there. This is *particularly* important if you camp in bear habitat; but you don’t want raccoons in your weekend abode, either. We keep food in the cab of our truck at all times, except when we’re actually cooking. Raccoons are devious little devils and can get into most anything. A corollary: keep trash carefully confined in a trash bag, and take it to the dumpster *immediately* after the meal. Campground raccoons have learned where to look for treasure, and you don’t want that to be in your site.

**Lanterns/lighting: With no electricity, you’ll need a lantern or two (either battery or kerosene operated) for light in the evenings. Most tent sites have poles with hooks specifically designed for lanterns. We have a battery-operated model for inside the tent. (NO kerosene-fueled anything in the tent.) You’ll also need flashlights for evening trips to the facilities and for exploration.

Next: optional items to make your site more pleasant

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Attention All Foodies! Book/Movie Recommendation



If you missed "Julie and Julia" in theatres recently, you missed a jewel. An absolute must-see for all foodies, this charming film (written and directed by Nora Ephron) deftly weaves together two completely separate narratives.

The first is "My Life in France," Julia Child's enjoyable memoir about how she came to fall in love with la belle France, her years in Europe, and the struggles she faced in first learning to cook, then publishing her most famous cookbook, "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." Surprisingly, she didn't write the memoir until the last years of her life, and in fact, the book wasn't finished and published until after her death.

The second is "Julie and Julia" by Julie Powell. Julie, in a dead-end job, decided to cook every recipe in "Mastering the Art" in one year and blog about her experiences. The blog turned out to be hugely popular, and this memoir resulted.


I'm not sure whose idea it was to combine the two books, but whoever it was is a genius. Director Ephron brilliantly shifts between the two stories, without clunky tools like subtitling "Paris 1948" (intelligent film-goers can see the styles of cars and the Eiffel Tower and figure that out, thank you). There are occasional poignant scenes and several hilarious ones (two of my favorites, without spoiling anything, involve Julia and onions and Julie and lobsters). Meryl Streep nails her performance, as always. It must be tough to portray a real character that so many filmgoers have living memory of, but she pulls it off. And I'm really beginning to like Amy Adams.

After the movie, we purchased "Mastering the Art" (had to order it online and wait six weeks for volume 2; the bookstores were completely unprepared), one of the most unique cookbooks we've ever seen. Not just recipes, but instructions on how to whisk an egg, turn an omelette, dissect a chicken, etc. A true learning experience. We won't do a recipe a day, but so far, we've tried classic French onion soup (a success) and a classic hollandaise. Not so much. It broke. People always ask, "What does a broken sauce look like?" and the pros always reply, "You'll know when you see it." Uh, yeah. One minute, it's a lovely sauce. The next second, it doesn't resemble anything remotely edible. Yuck.

The movie isn't out yet on DVD, but be watching for it soon. And the bookstores are now full of all things "Julie and Julia," so you shouldn't have any trouble at all finding the books. As Julia would say, "Bon appetit!"

Upcoming blog posts:
  • Columbus Day weekend in post-Ike Galveston
  • Enjoying once again the Texas Renaissance Festival